Preface
To climb a mountain, you’ve got to start with a hill. San Francisco kindly supplied about two thousand of them—some at angles I’m convinced defy basic physics.By 2013, documenting our trips had become tradition. This one felt different, though—like the notes and photos were nudging me toward something bigger. I didn’t know what that “something” was at the time, but thankfully I wrote most things down (and some of it even made sense when I read it back). It’s these fragments—places, moments, emotions—that now help me rebuild it all.
This journal isn’t just a play-by-play of where we went. It’s an attempt to capture how we moved through the city—mentally, physically, occasionally sideways. Yes, there’s transit drama (I’m looking at you, MUNI), and plenty of notes on accessibility—because planning these trips takes time, effort, and the stubbornness of a mule in a snowstorm. I tend to overplan, which sometimes means biting off more than I can chew. But if you don’t push beyond your comfort zone, you risk missing the magic entirely.
And if anyone else ends up reading this, I hope they find something useful. If it’s just me looking back years from now, may I find at least one helpful reminder: never trust a quiet street in San Francisco—it might be vertical.
Con, November 2013
Introduction
Back in 2011, when we first got our passports, we already knew the first stamp would be New York City—and San Francisco would be next. I poured a lot of energy into planning that debut trip to NYC, mapping every detail like a cartographer with caffeine. But along the way, this second journey started taking shape too. What we learned from that first adventure was priceless—especially in figuring out what we could reasonably fit into a day, given we weren’t as mobile as some travellers. With a head start and over a year to fine-tune everything, I felt far more confident we’d be able to reach the places we truly wanted to see.
Our choice of San Francisco was partly guided by my work schedule, which operated on a tight rota. Swapping dates was technically possible, but when the opportunity to spend Christmas in San Francisco arose—where it’s a balmy 17°C even in winter—there wasn’t much debate. Let’s be honest: who really dreams of spending Christmas 2013 in the cold drizzle of the UK? The flight was a test of stamina—11 hours and six thousand miles—but we weren’t about to let that stop us.
Now, you might wonder why we picked a city known for its steep hills, considering our mobility challenges. Fair question. That’s exactly why I spent countless hours decoding the public transport system. Thankfully, Muni—the network of buses and trams—is wonderfully widespread, and we made excellent use of it. With 13 days to explore, we could afford to take things at a slower pace and really sink into the rhythm of the city.
San Francisco is endlessly varied. Rain or shine and we got nothing but sunshine, there’s always something to discover. Whether it was the glittering bay, the relaxed beach scene, or the layered charm of the streets themselves—every corner seemed to offer a welcome.
The city’s vibe is laid-back and free-spirited—the birthplace of the Hippy movement and the legendary Summer of Love in ‘67. Unlike NYC’s sharp skyline, San Francisco (apart from its financial district) is mostly low-rise homes and quirky storefronts. And here’s a secret not everyone knows: there are actually quite a few flat areas. The city spans just 7 by 7 miles, and not every street requires alpine gear.
Of course, not everything was smooth sailing. But we faced the challenges head-on and got to experience one of the most beautiful cities in America.
So, this is our story—our path through The Streets of San Francisco. And no, still not a pun. Though I admit we did sometimes feel like extras in a 1970s cop show... minus the car chases.